Cordelia Sourdough Bakehouse was almost an entirely different venue.
“Originally, we were going to do a doughnut shop – we got the design drawn up and everything,” laughs co-owner Eddy Tice, who operates Cordelia alongside partner Ania Kutek. “But we’d been having a big demand for sourdough bread, so we turned into a wholesale bakery at the last minute.” Since opening in early April, Tice is happy with the change of plans. “It’s been really good – it’s almost turned out better than [we] expected,” he says.
The spacious cafe and bakery sits at the entrance of the Opera apartment building on Cordelia Street, with an industrial-inspired interior accentuated by pops of gold and plenty of natural light.
It’s a short walk from the pair’s first venue, NYC Bagel Deli, which opened in West End in 2016 before a Chermside outpost opened the following year. In 2020, the day after the national Covid shutdown was announced, they opened croissanterie and bakery Superthing nearby on Montague Road.
The West End-South Brisbane area has felt like home for Tice and Kutek since 2014, when they began selling their bagels at markets “everywhere from the Sunshine Coast to the Gold Coast”, including the West End Markets. “From the get-go we felt that this is just a really nice suburb, and it’s always seemed like our fit,” says Tice.
Cordelia’s menu includes filled bagels and loaded croissants from NYC Bagel Deli and Superthing, alongside some decadent toasties, served “really big, with plenty of cheese”, and burgers served on milk buns, including a classic bacon and egg number and a smoky rib one with a boneless glazed rib, apple coleslaw, cheddar and pickles.
Breads include white and seeded sourdough, light and dark rye, sourdough baguettes, and a caramelised onion and cracked pepper loaf (Tice’s favourite). Loaves featuring kalamata and green olives are also in the works. And there’s a cabinet full of sweet baked goods, including a cinnamon scroll, monkey bread, seasonal danishes, and classic croissants (pain au chocolat, plain and almond).
The pair’s carby creations are made with five different sourdough starters, each imparting a unique flavour profile. They include a seven-year-old bagel starter used at NYC Bagel Deli; a starter from San Francisco that the duo had shipped to Brisbane; the Warsaw starter, named after Kutek’s Polish heritage; and a 40-year-old starter acquired from an old mentor in Sydney. There’s also a local starter made with Kakadu plum.
Rounding out the offering is a Basque cheesecake and a sourdough waffle. Daddy’s Girl, a light-medium roast by Padre Coffee, is the espresso blend of choice at all of Tice and Kutek’s venues.
Cordelia Sourdough Bakehouse
47 Cordelia St, South Brisbane