When Freja and Nathan Dunnell opened Freja’s in Wilston back in 2018, it quickly became a local favourite. But it was always intended to be a temporary project. Freja’s closed at the end of 2019, and after a swift month-long refit it became Elska: a petite fine-diner with a hyper-seasonal menu.

Elska runs with just four staff across both front and back of house (similar to Fortitude Valley’s immensely popular Joy). There are just 12 seats and bookings go fast.

The degustation menu changes daily. Expect anything from salted goldband snapper with green aioli and desert lime; to Mooloolaba prawn with black garlic, caramelised onion and nasturtium; and emu accompanied by quandong ketchup and saltbush. The wine list is straightforward, with a small collection of whites, reds, sparklings and a rosé that can be sampled as a pairing.

The interiors blend voguish Scandi minimalism with wooden accents and soft grey furnishings. The venue’s tiny, moodily lit hideaway is suitable for dinner service and the enclosed courtyard is fitted out with pendent lights, blinds and sheer curtains.

And if you’re still mourning Freja’s departure, Elska has a 30-seat brunch service on weekends.

Updated: February 17th, 2020

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