After amassing a waitlist in the thousands – it burgeoned after she appeared as a guest judge on Masterchef in 2020 – chef Helly Raichura moved her pop-up dining concept Enter Via Laundry into this permanent, dedicated spot in Carlton North.

With just 20 covers a night, it’s as intimate as the 10-person degustations she once hosted at her Box Hill home, before launching a series of roving out-of-town pop-ups. Meals begin in a faux living room, where guests enjoy drinks and nibbles before moving to either an eight-seat or 12-seat communal table. Bookings are absolutely essential.

The set menu is $210 a head for roughly 20 different items, about eight of which are included in the main course, a big spread that occupies an hour or so. In the past Raichura presented dainty, degustation-style plates, but here the meals revolve around heartier dishes like rice with warrigal greens, desert-lime-spiked dal and Murray River cod with blood lime. And like the previous pop-ups, native and seasonal ingredients are a key factor in what ends up on the table.

The space reflect the menu, juxtaposing artwork and servingware sourced from both India and Australia, while the feature piece of the main dining room is a striking painting by Pintupi artist Debra McDonald Nangala. The restaurant also uses ceramics from Melbourne creative Andrei Davidoff, carved marble boxes from Agra, India, and handmade metal plates from Gujarat, where Raichura grew up.

Updated: April 28th, 2022

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