After six months, Andrew McConnell has moved his Covid-19 pop-up Marion Grocer into a permanent home, just a couple doors down from Marion and Cutler & Co on Gertrude Street. The new shop – rebranded as Morning Market – is loosely based on European food markets (and also inspired by what McConnell keeps in his home pantry).
On minimalist shelves, find alternative milks beside lemon marmalade and hibiscus mixers. There’s also fresh fruit and veg, Asian cooking basics, La Tortilleria tortillas and Tuck Shop Takeaway tomato sauce. And if you’ve tried to hit up Bunnings for tomato seedlings only to find they’re sold out, you can buy them here courtesy of Ramarro Farm – as well as alpine strawberry plants.
There’s also Baker Bleu bread, pastries and sizeable $6 pizza squares; grab-and-go salads; and two-person cakes (including Marion’s Basque cheesecake). And Single O coffee is on pour. Plus, there are some pretty delicious sandwiches.
There’s also fancy, rotating hampers for picknickers. One has a seeded baguette and cultured butter; burrata with caper-and-parsley salsa; sliced prosciutto with pickled rockmelon; roast Bannockburn chicken with French breakfast radish; and raspberry tarts with vanilla cream. Plus, there are picnic-perfect Seljak wool blankets and Stanley thermos flasks for sale.
Shades of green pop against the concrete floor, from the sage feature wall (where the bread is stacked), to bundles of broad beans arranged in a pyramid, to a centrepiece of globe artichokes. Citrus fruits are displayed in wooden Rhone Valley wine crates on a marble table, and fresh blooms (including spring snowballs and pink proteas) burst from steel buckets.
When restaurants reopen, Morning Market will share street seating with Marion, so you can soak up Gertrude Street in all its glory. And while taking over the empty space at number 59 was never part of McConnell’s plan, it’s definitely one of Covid’s silver linings.
Morning Market is takeaway-only during Melbourne’s stage-four lockdown.