Melbourne does a lot of things excellently – coffee, rooftop bars, theatre. And pizza.
And now there’s a new player bringing American-style slices to the inner north. Tomorrow, Deep End opens on Brunswick Street in Fitzroy, guided by chef and co-owner Paul Kasten (Deeds Taproom and Host Dining).
“I’ve been a bit obsessed with [pizza] for a few decades now,” Kasten tells Broadsheet. “For a long time, I’ve wanted to take all the technique and product knowledge I picked up cooking very refined food and apply it to a more casual and accessible concept.”
Deep End will distinguish itself with an offering of three iconic pizza styles: New York-style thin crust; the crispy-cornered Detroit-style focaccia base; and hulking Chicago-style stuffed deep-dish pizza – which Kasten says isn’t as commonly seen in Melbourne as the others.
“It features a rich, tender top, and bottom crust stuffed with heaps of cheese and toppings in between, and the pizza sauce baked on top,” he says. “It’s a very decadent, once-in-a-while option, but one that is sure to get people’s attention – as it did for me when attending university a few hours from Chicago.”
There’s a variety of classic and left-of-centre toppings, including a clam pie with bacon and Grana Padano, and the Thyme Crisis with confit garlic, mascarpone, mozzarella, potato and guanciale. Plus, four different chilli salts, each spicier than the next.
Sides-wise, expect brûléed chicken-liver parfait, whipped taleggio with charred spring onion and focaccia, and a decadent roasted bone marrow with toast and herby salad.
Enter off “the deep end of Brunswick Street” – behind a graffitied exterior – into the casual, industrial space, with bold splashes of red. Kasten is joined by beer-connoisseur co-owners Kate Paterson, Kyle Campbell and Rasmus Gundel, so it’s unsurprising that the local-craft-beer game is strong here, plus you’ll find wines and easy-drinking cocktails.
Kasten wants it to be a space for everyone: “That favourite local pizza shop is just one of those things we fall back on, whether the mood is celebratory, we’ve had a tough day and need something comforting, or just want to eat something we know we’ll love.”
And – as an opening special – the diner’s giving away 100 larger-than-usual corner slices of Detroit-style pizza on Wednesday June 29 from 12pm until sold out. They’ll come from a new takeaway-slice window that’s opening on the same day.
Deep End opens on Friday June 24.
412a Brunswick Street, Fitzroy
Wed to Sun 12pm–2.30pm, 6pm–11pm