The concept of contrast runs throughout Good Nights. A purple-pink glow lights the 60-seat space, which is one part lively and kitsch – with cheap floral tablecloths, ’90s-style school chairs, blue padded booths and a rotating mirror ball – and one part refined thanks to a long granite marble bar, a modern open kitchen and clean white brick walls.
The menu – a mix of off-centre Vietnamese share plates – hits varying notes, too. Starters take the form of street snacks, such as spring rolls with and sourdough prawn toast with salted duck egg. Mains are even jazzier. That's clear in dishes such as Roo Luc Lac, which is an Aussie play on the classic Vietnamese dish bo luc lac, but Good Nights’ version substitutes beef for kangaroo.
The Family Style portion of the menu includes DIY rice paper rolls with fillings ranging from grilled pork to betel leaf lamb, and a whole barbequed chicken served with chicken-fat rice. For simple soupy comfort there's the same pho that’s available at GoodDays (Good Nights’ sister restaurant), including the multi-fungi vegan one the Brunswick spot became known for, and an organic beef version with a marrow-rich broth, Black Angus topside and brisket. Or try the congee with osso bucco and Chinese doughnuts.
The cocktail list is very seasonal, changing every two weeks, but expect concoctions such as the gin and persimmon shrub with Ounce Gin Bold, from Adelaide, and Contratto Bianco vermouth. Or a play on the classic Vietnamese iced coffee made with cold brew from local cafe Franklin Windsor and a booze of your choice, plus a good slug of condensed milk.