There’s two ways to go with a sausage roll, and not much in between.

The old-fashioned variety includes oddly loud plastic wrapping; pastry oily enough to turn a brown paper bag into a clear sheet; and a sausage with completely unidentifiable ingredients.

The other is wrapped in a delicate, flaky pastry and contains a sausage that’s moist, well-seasoned and texturally, far more than just a log of jelly-meat. It might even be served on a plate.

Both have their place, but this guide is where to find the latter.

Bourke Street Bakery

These pork-and-fennel numbers are Sydney's most popular sausage roll, by a long shot.

633 Bourke Street, Surry Hills

Black Star Pastry Newtown

Stubby beef and pork sausages and some of the flakiest puff pastry around.

277 Australia Street, Newtown

Banksia Bistro

Have you ever tried a suckling pig sausage roll?

288 Princes Hwy Service Road, Banksia

Bennelong

The fanciest of the lot. Comes in six slices, each with a dollop of fermented garlic on top.

Sydney Opera House, Bennelong Point

Penny Fours

Beef, onion and roasted garlic wrapped up in dense short-crust pastry.

141 Norton Street, Leichhardt